What's the best way to transport your fishing kayak?

     I see it online all the time. On group pages like Facebook, and forum sites like YakAngler.com, someone buys a fishing kayak, whether it be a entry level model or a high end unit, they jump on the forum page(s) and ask, "...what's the best way to transport my fishing kayak?"

     Before I get into answering this question, I'd like start off by saying that there really is no "best" way to transporting your fishing kayak, this is just my opinion on the subject. I am NOT a know-it-all and make no claims as to how YOU should transport your kayak. This will give you some ideas as to how myself, and a few of my friends, go about transporting our rigs to and from the launch areas.
     Some of these ideas are really simple, while others are more involved with a certain creative flair between mild & wild. So, let's take a look at some of the more popular ideas out there.

     The Roof Top - method "A"

Photo Credit: Rain Prisk

For the traditional kayak user, or entry level sit-inside fishing kayak buyer, this will involve the user to buy additional equipment such as roof bars and/or J-cradles to carry the kayak in a safe manner. This would also include ratchet straps to firmly secure the kayak to the J-cradle system, or as pictured, to the roof bars. It may also include bar pads that attach to the roof bars so they don't damage the underside of the kayak's hull. Most regular kayaks, and some entry level sit-inside fishing kayaks, are so light that most people can lift or toss the kayaks onto the roof by themselves.

     The Roof Top/Ladder Rack - method B

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

While the photo isn't the greatest in quality, it actually shows two very different approaches to transporting your fishing kayak(s). But, for the sake of using another "roof top" method, here's another option - the Ladder Rack method. The truck is a Toyota Crew Cab with short bed and a ladder rack installed along the top edge of the bed. This gives you a unique way of carrying more than one kayak on a smaller truck. As you can see, the extra length of the ladder rack can accommodate longer kayaks (Hobie Pro Angler 14s & 16s) and has separate anchor areas to secure the kayak in place up top, while the bottom kayak can be secured to the nose of the truck's bed. Judging by the photo, he has a "Bed Extender" attached to the receiver hitch that also allows for the transportation of longer kayaks like the one pictured here. I will get into that (the Bed Extender) in a little bit. The method of carrying a kayak this way can be expensive as it involves having a truck, buying the ladder rack, and having the strength & stamina of getting the kayak up there. Also, watch out for low bridges and tunnels, or you may not have that kayak up there anymore. 

     The Trailer method

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

This is the another way to tow your kayak to the launch site using your car, SUV, or truck. It can hold all your gear in a secure area such as the back seat or trunk area. This man's trailer was well thought out. He made a custom cradle to hold his fully-rigged kayak, which would enable him to get out on the water without wasting any pre-setup time. Also, you can see that this man doesn't have to lift his kayak much to get it on the trailer. Looks to be about 4 foot high which is just tall enough to get the front end on the trailer, then go around back to lift it up and push the rest of it forward. 

There are a few drawbacks to this method. The trailer will have to be equipped with turn signals, running lights, and brake lights. It will also have to be registered as well. Oh, and if you've never had the joys of backing up a trailer, you may be inventing some new swear words as you try to back out of where ever you pulled into - you'll have to invest in a rear facing backup camera and extra wide outside mirrors for your vehicle. 

*NOTE - It really helps if have an extra person with you. If you came alone, don't be afraid to ask someone to be a spotter for you. It will be a huge help!  

     The Truck Bed and/or Bed Extender method

My kayak is seen here with my old Dodge truck. I just drop the tailgate, load up my kayak, and use two ratchet straps - one attaches to the top bed stake hole, then I slip the other end down into the pedal drive hole and up to the bed stake hole, and the other attaches to the receiver hitch to keep the kayak's rear end from swaying left & right in the turns.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

This man slides his kayak into the bed of his work truck and straps it in place so it stays put.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

As mentioned earlier, here's a prime example of a "bed extender" in action. This is great for kayaks that are too long for those trucks that have short beds. The main purpose of the bed extender is to have the longer kayak stay put while traveling. Without it, the kayak's weight may cause the kayak's rear portion to sag, or droop down while traveling. This man has a Yeti Cooler on his kayak, but the bar keeps the kayak where it's supposed to be - in the truck's bed. It also helps to keep annoying tailgaters away from the back of your truck. Trust me, that bar is a lot stronger than you think! Many people put foam rollers or cut pieces of carpet on the back of the top bar to protect the bottom of the kayak's hull. I put foam pool noodles on the stake sides to keep the arms from scratching the kayak's sides. I also have a red flag hanging off the back of the kayak.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

This guy uses PVC pipes as rollers on the bottom and sides to protect his kayak. Once again, the bed extender is holding up the rear portion of his kayak as he transports both the kayak AND a kettle-bottom charcoal grill, which was used at a "meet & greet" event in Rhode Island. As stated earlier, this guy was hit from behind by a driver who wasn't watching the road which resulted in damage to their car, but no damage to this guy's truck. I have the same bed extender on my truck, but I added extra reflective tape on the back and sides for safety.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall 

     The Custom Mount method

This is what a custom kayak loading system and transport rig looks like! We met this unknown guy at a "meet and greet" a few years back. He wasn't a member of our fishing club, but he had one of coolest ways to load, unload, and transport a Hobie Outback kayak (75 lbs.). He had square tube aluminum that he welded in his garage, used a few roller wheels from Harbor Freight, a few clear inline skate wheels, a pulley, some nylon rope, and a single bar roof carrier. He said he could drag the kayak up the custom track and hold it in place using an anchor cleat attached inside the bed. He mentioned that in the near future, he was looking to have his setup winch-driven with a handheld remote because he wasn't getting any younger! It was, by far, the oddest looking contraption among the group, and also, the most time consuming - not only to operate, but to set it up as well. But, it goes to show you that the complexity of the design is limitless, and that's there's always room for improvement.

Photo Credits: Jeff Hall  

     So, what is the best way to transport your fishing kayak?  In my opinion, I prefer the truck bed and/or bed extender method. Why, you ask? Because with the tailgate down, I have a clear view of what's behind me at all times, I can still back up AND see where I'm going, With your tailgate & kayak laying down in the back, you will get the best gas mileage because there's nothing to tow, There is plenty of room for an extra kayak and additional gear, And with the bed extender, I have an extra guard of safety back there. My bed extender cost me about $56 from Wal-Mart, I don't have to register it, and it stands up out of the way in my garage when I'm not using it.  I throw my kayak in the back and secure it with just two ratchet straps! Easy and done! It's just easier for me with a truck because I've been driving them all my life since high school. There are so many ideas out there to modify your truck to carry multiple kayaks. But, that's what I would use to transport a kayak. It all depends on your budget too. You buy what you can afford, and make it work for you - it can be mild and simple, or wild and crazy! That's just my opinion.

     As usual, keep those lines wet & tight! - J

The Trouble with Trebles

     Seriously?  Yes and no. Though it may sound like a working title episode from the classic 1960s sci-fi space drama, Star Trek, I can assure you that it's not.

     But, what I'm getting at here is switching out your treble hooks to a single hook. Though it may look like you're cutting out a 60% chance of not catching that fish, you're actually cutting out the chance of actually "wearing" that treble hook in your skin - preferably your hand!

     Actually, this blog really is about treble hooks and the trouble they sometimes cause. If you're like me, and you fish in saltwater a lot, then you know how destructive saltwater can be to our fishing gear.

     One night while fishing in Newport,RI at Fort Adams near the fog horn. I was using an 8 inch Sebile lure with two treble hooks. It was working great with multiple strikes until one strike proved to be the real deal. The fish, a 34" Striped Bass, took off with the lure with downward dives for nearly 10 minutes, until I got the fish about 8 feet from my kayak, and the lure shot straight up. It felt like the line snapped, but to my surprise when I reeled up the slack line, the lure was still attached! I thought to myself, "....what caused that sudden buzzkill???"
     Upon closer inspection, I noticed that one of the treble hooks (the bottom one) was missing one of their barbs. For a $20 lure, you would think that the lure maker would've used a stronger hook material for the lure.

This is what the Sebile lure looks like with factory treble hook that they chose for this lure. 

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

I had spare treble hooks from a few surf plugs that I rarely use. I ended choosing these treble hooks for my lure. Twice as thick and way stronger than the cheap ones from the Sebile Magic Swimmer.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

This is the small 6 inch Sebile Magic Swimmer that lost a whole barb to what would've been a personal best Striped Bass! Several friends in our kayak fishing club told me horror stories of similar things that happened to them if they relied on the cheap trebles that came with the lure.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

This is the small 6 inch Sebile Magic Swimmer that I fixed with red 4/0 Gamakatsu Treble hooks. They are thicker, stronger, and more reliable than the cheap stock treble hooks.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

    This is my larger 8 inch Sebile Magic Swimmer with galvanized steel treble hooks that I upgraded because I don't trust the cheap stock treble hooks that came with it. Though there's some slight rust on the forward treble hook, it shouldn't be a problem. In the future, I will eventually end up switching to single hooks to minimize my chances of getting multiple stab wounds from an angry Striped Bass or Bluefish! This will also add to the fish's survival rate too.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall

        To do add beefier trebles, or just trying to decrease your chances at getting stabbed by a treble, you will need a tool called Split Ring Pliers - this will also work with removing those treble hooks as well.

     Hope this adds to your experience in the future when dealing with aggressive fish as it will add to your enjoyment out on the water by not having to worrying about getting cut or stabbed by errant treble hooks. Either way, you can add beefier treble hooks, or remove and replace them with one single hook, you decide which works best for you.

     As usual, keep those lines wet & tight! - J

What's in a Name?

     Many times I often get asked, "how did you come up with your blog name, Kayak Fishing Country?"

     This will seem kind of strange to most people, but when I was a kid, my parents used to go camping a lot. The road trips were very long, so to past the time, I would play this little game called "the license plate game". In Connecticut, back in the day our plates consisted of three numbers and three letters. Nowadays, it's two letters and five numbers. Anyways, I'd come up with some pretty bizarre sayings, quotes, or some gibberish that really didn't make any sense at all but it was very silly sometimes. Even as an adult now, my mind is always thinking about making my life easier for me on the water - not just fishing, but also for safety too.
     So, while driving past a Kentucky Fried Chicken building, I noticed that they had "shortened" their business name to just three letters, "KFC".
     As I drove by, I said to myself, there's your next tagline, "KFC - Kayak Fishing Country, a blog for people that kayak, fish, and love the country!"

     And so it began, my personal blog on fishing from a kayak in the country of the USA. Sometimes I fish in the most remote settings, while other times I fish down at the shore in Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island. I will admit that most of my fishing is down at the shore in RI, but I will also fish fresh and salt water within my home state of Connecticut too.

     I also set out to make my own logo and design to "brag" about my blog page, rather than write down the blog address, I designed my own business cards. Even though it's not really a business, I dubbed them my "remembrance cards", so I wouldn't have to say it or write it down a hundred times. Now, people could have access to my page. If they decided they don't need, or want the card anymore, I would tell them to pin it on a message board at a local coffee shop or pizza shop where someone else can take it. Pictured below is the design I made on Cafe Press that's used on shirts, stickers, and my remembrance cards.

Photo Credit: Jeff Hall - Owner/Blogger/Artist 

(the above design is protected by Cafe Press)

     I brought the cards along to our fishing club's annual saltwater fishing show in Providence,RI. Out of 500 cards made, 300+ cards were taken. The had all my info on it, as well as a picture I took of my customized kayak, and a friend's kayak that I was slowly modifying. It was taken in Jamestown,RI at the deep water launch site, a place that's popular with the area scuba dive shops and their dive students.

     The following year, I decided to try a new angle by adding different scenic photos to my cards from the previous year's outings on the front's inset and on the back of the card in full color. Each card was listed as a "collector card" and would feature members of our fishing club immortalized on both sides of the card - the back of the card would mention their name and the town location of where I took the photo. My cellphone is always with me on the water in a clear waterproof dry bag, so I can capture the action as it happens. This tactic proved to be a winner because nobody else has ever thought of it.

     And, that's how my blog name came about.

     As usual, keep those lines wet & tight! - J

   

Upgrading to a 6 inch Hobie-style "Twist & Seal" Hatch

    For those of you who already have a 6 inch hatch on your kayak, this may be the upgrade you've been waiting for!

    I bought a used 2013 Feelfree Moken 14 a few years ago. It was Feelfree's first foray into the world of "Big Game/Offshore" sit-on-top fishing kayaks. The previous owner told me that he paid well over $1400 for that kayak - a huge difference in price, since I paid just $500 for it used. I had seen his kayak at a "Meet & Greet" with our kayak fishing club in Rhode Island earlier that year in 2017. He mentioned that he was selling it due to a shoulder injury and that he could no longer lift the kayak to put it on his car. As I was doing a visual inspection of the kayak, I mentioned about the structural cracks on the hull's topside, some of which were long and wide. He never said anything as to how the hull became cracked, only that he said it didn't hurt the performance of the kayak on the water's surface.
    Later on that same year, I emailed him on our private message board, and asked if the kayak was still for sale. He said, "Yes, I still have it." I told him that I wanted to buy it, and he mentioned he would let it go for just $500 (he was asking $750 at the "Meet & Greet"). This included the extra comfy seat (a $250 value), and a rod holder. The paddle, he was going to keep, for his other kayak. And so the process of repairing the cracked hull was underway during the Winter of 2017/2018. When I finally finished the plastic welding of the damaged hull, I went on a search to upgrade the rear 6 inch hatch. Though, it was waterproof, I didn't care for the way it opened. Not that I will ever use this hatch on the open water, but I wanted something similar to Hobie's "Twist & Seal" hatch.

    I checked out an online store called, "Wish.com" - a great site to consider when shopping for products like the Hobie-style "Twist & Seal" 6 inch hatch (they also come in 8 inch sizes too). Like the Hobie-style hatch, it uses a small "T-Handle" that twists 180 degrees and opens up with a one-handed operation. Unlike my old hatch, a quarter turn of the cover, and the hatch cover pops off and is tethered with a small cord.
     So, this article is: "How to Install, or Upgrade, your 6 inch hatch with a Hobie-style Twist & Seal Hatch".

 

This hatch is the one I will be upgrading. I found a vendor on Wish.com that was selling a 6 inch Hobie-style hatch for just $10. Hobie sells their 6 inch hatch for $50! I bought three 6 inch hatches for $30, plus shipping for $18.96, and STILL paid less for the $50 Hobie version!

Under the cover, there hides 6 screws, each one has a lock nut attached on the inside. 

Photo Credit #1: Jeff Hall

Though the new hatch looks bigger, it isn't. The new hatch comes with a thick neoprene gasket that will aid in the waterproof capabilities of this hatch. The only difference between the two hatches is that the newer hatch needs 8 screws. I chose to stick with stainless steel hardware because this kayak will see a lot of salt use in the coming seasons. I also chose a longer screw at 5/8 inches, over the old 1/2 inch screws, and slightly bigger locking nuts.

Photo Credit #2: Jeff Hall

Be sure to save the old screws and nuts. You may want to use these in the future for a different project. I bought 16 screws, washers, and nuts that were all stainless steel and the total came to $21.60!

  Photo Credit #3: Jeff Hall

The holes marked off with an X are the holes that I won't be using. Because the new hatches have 8 holes, you will use the top, bottom, left, and right existing holes. The other 4 holes will can be drilled out. No need for Goop on the old holes. The new hatch came with a thick neoprene foam gasket that will cover up the old holes.

Photo Credit #4: Jeff Hall

 

The old screws and nuts on the lower left were replaced with longer screws and bigger locking nuts on the upper right. I bought washers, but chose not to use them. The longer screws were needed because of the thick foam gasket that was provided.

Photo Credit #5: Jeff Hall

 

I put the 4 longer screws with nuts on already. This made it a lot easier when drilling out the other 4 holes - no shifting makes for a perfect install, even for a novice.

Photo Credit #6: Jeff Hall

 

Be sure to save the shavings from all the drilling you do. You can use the shavings to cover up a crack or gouge in your kayak's hull in the future. Your kayak's hull is made High Density Poly Ethelyne, or HDPE for short. Milk crates are made from the same material and makes for a good substitute if you don't have enough material.

Photo Credit #7: Jeff Hall

After I tightened all the screws and locking nuts, this is what the new Hobie-cloned 6 inch hatch looks like. Almost looks as if it came with this feature already installed!

Photo Credit #8: Jeff Hall

 Make sure you take your time with this install. I installed this in my garage, with no heat, in 30 degree weather, it is best that you take your time with this project. Because of the hatch's location, there can be no room for errors here! As I stated earlier, I don't intend on using this hatch while I'm out on the water, as I don't need to get swamped with water offshore!

As usual, keep those lines wet & tight! - J

 

 

 

Anchor Line Retrieval System

    While there are many anchor trolley articles and videos out there, no one seems to have any ideas as to how or where we store the anchor line. I've seen people make some sort of line storage "system" that consists of wrapping it around a piece of PVC pipe, or some sort of hand crank contraption by some well known brand name label. I'm being honest here, but some of these ideas are either really cheap, or really super expensive. And, for some people like myself, I'd want something that compact and easy to make - without adding unnecessary weight.

    So, here's what I use, and it won't cost a whole lot to make.

    Whether I'm fishing saltwater with tidal currents, or freshwater with windy conditions, there are some instances where I just want to stay put in one spot. I currently use a 5 lb. grappling-style anchor and a package of 550 Paracord 50 ft long. But, rather than keep the paracord in my lap, I use a unique retrieval system that I bolted onto the side of my gear crate.

This is my gear crate. After a 2 year absence, I plan to re-install my anchor line retrieval system in the same spot as where the old one was. It seems to work well there. You may want to put your crate on your kayak to see where you want to install it.

Photo Credit #1: Jeff Hall

 

This is a retractable clothesline unit that I got at Home Depot for about $30. There are two kinds - one is rated at 20 ft long, and this one, which is rated for 40 ft long. I chose the longer 40 ft one because I will be attaching about 50 ft of 550 Paracord to the existing line. The paracord is incredibly strong and really doesn't take up a whole lot of space inside the wheel. You won't need the hardware.

Photo Credit #2: Jeff Hall

 

The reel already comes with vinyl coated line - which takes a lot of room inside the reel. I pulled out 39 ft of cord and wrapped the cord on the cleat to hold it in place. I then held both the vinyl cord and paracord at the same time and just tied a simple knot. I cut the excess cord on both pieces and left about quarter inch from the knot.

Photo Credit #3: Jeff Hall

I lit ends of both cords. When the flame it got near the knot, I blew out the flame and used the flat end of a screwdriver to flatten the ends of the cord. This is crucial to help keep your cord from untying itself. The flattened ends will prevent the cords from slipping through the knot. Trust me, it works really well, and I've never had a problem since.

Photo Credit #4: Jeff Hall

Here's a close up of the flared cord ends. Even if the ends melt together, this is even better as it will make it impossible for the knot to unravel itself.

Photo Credit #5: Jeff Hall

If the plate looks like it's upside down, it is. The reel has its own cleat built in UNDER the reel. For my tastes, I prefer to have the cleat on the TOP. I used 4 stainless steel screws and 4 stainless steel locking nuts.

Photo Credit #6: Jeff Hall

 To keep the reel firmly in one place, I used a piece of scrap aluminum plate from an old road sign. The road sign was purchased at a local flea market for $10. I started with two bolts in the existing bracket on the reel and secured them in place. Then, I drilled from the inside of the crate on the other two holes that were used on my last crate and secured those other two bolts.

Photo Credit #7: Jeff Hall

      I stopped at a local ACE Hardware/True Value store and found this brass clip. Brass is extremely durable and great for saltwater use. *Pro Tip - Can't find a brass clip at your local hardware store, a marina shop might have something similar, or anyplace that services sailboats.

Just be sure to keep the clip sprayed with WD-40 so the spring & clasp doesn't get corroded.

     *NOTE: Depending on your anchor choice, you may want to bring your anchor with you when choosing the right clasp. The clasp should be able to move freely when attached to the anchor.

Photo Credit #8: Jeff Hall

My friend Mo shows how the anchor line retrieval system is used in conjunction with a anchor trolley. On her crate, the reel is near the front of her crate. This is due to the fact that she has a shorter arm reach than I do. I have longer arms, so I chose to put my reel near the back of the crate.

Photo Credit #9: Jeff Hall

You don't have to use the cleat on the top of the reel housing if you already have a cleat on your kayak. This works out great for her. When you're done with the anchor, you pull it up, disconnect it from the line, and the spring inside the reel automatically retracts the line for you.

Photo Credit #10: Jeff Hall

So, there you have it. My "not-so-secret" anchor line retrieval system that I've been using for about 5 years now. When I rolled a few years ago in the saltwater, the salt damaged the reel spring inside. I bought another 40 ft clothesline reel and repeated the same process as above. A small price to pay for an inexpensive system that works well. It has saved my hide a few times from getting caught up in strong currents going out a breachway. The line is super strong and extremely durable and holds up well. You shouldn't have any problems in freshwater either.

Until then, keep those lines wet & tight! - J

Mono Pond - Columbia,CT

 

 Photo Credit #1: CT DEEP

    This is my 3rd installment of eastern Connecticut's freshwater lakes & ponds series with Mono Pond State Park Reserve - a small pond located off State Route 66, on 120 Hunt Road, Columbia, CT.

    This little gem of a pond was once covered with milfoil. I had spoke with a local resident a few years ago about the possibility of this pond being a potential candidate for trophy bass management. He said, "The state of CT's DEEP stepped in and used an experimental treatment to rid the invasive weed from the waters. Unfortunately, without proper testing of the treatment, it killed the milfoil, but it also killed off a lot of fish in the process."

At 120 Hunt Road in Columbia,CT, the road going in is paved, as is the rest of the parking area, with a cement ramp for small boats.

Photo Credit #2: CT DEEP 

    After 5 years or so, the milfoil has been eradicated from the waters, the fish have made a comeback, and the bass were huge! I had paddled out to the opposite end of the pond one afternoon and saw some pretty big bass lurking under the lily pads in numerous spots.

 Photo Credit #3: CT DEEP

  

The parking area at Mono Pond is very small and fills up quickly in the early Spring with only 6 spaces. I've been down here a few times and it's absolutely crazy with cars parked on both sides of the road on opening day! Those that don't have boats will stand on the mound of grass near the dam's deep end.

Photo Credit #4: CT DEEP

The ramp is made from cement and has a low grade angle so 2wd cars & trucks shouldn't have any problems getting their trailers out of the water. 

Photo Credit #5: CT DEEP

The angle of the ramp is easy for cars & trucks to haul their boat trailers out of the water. 

*Note: Shown in the Fall when the state draws down the water at the end of the season.

  

Photo Credit #6: CT DEEP

A map of Mono Pond. 

 

Photo Credit #7: NortheastBass.com

A kayak angler stalks fish in a dense area of lily pads.

Photo Credit #8: CTFishTalk.com

    I have started to replenish my freshwater boxes with top water frogs and some new experimental plastic baits that literally "float" horizontally. Not really sure how the company pulled that off, but they did! They're locally made in Glastonbury,CT and the company is "Area 51 Fishing".
    You can see their Pilot Fish baits in action here on YouTube: Area 51 Fishing's Pilot Fish 

    Looking forward to next year in 2019 to try out these new baits and see how well they work. I've paddled out to the other end of the pond and saw several large bass amongst the lily pads. The pond itself isn't very big, but it does however, hold some truly big bass - which is good for us kayak anglers because we're able to get away from the large crowds, and bigger boats and get at all the hard to reach trophy fish.
    The pond itself isn't very deep - 3.5' feet at 80% of the lake, 6' feet near the boat ramp, and 9' feet near the dam. 

    The photo above shows you the dense area of lily pads that cause some grief with the bigger boats and their trolling motors. Where the kayaks will shine, is their ability to glide over these often overlooked, and hard to reach places to get at your next prized catch!


    As usual, keep those lines wet & tight!  - J

    

Hopeville Pond State Park - Griswold,CT

    This is the 2nd installment in my continuing efforts to explore the eastern side of Connecticut a little more. I will be getting my fishing license for Connecticut freshwaters next year.

    I grew up in north central CT in a small farm town called Windsor Locks, and fished the local Connecticut River, Farmington River, and Rainbow Reservoir. In the early 1990s, I lost my job and was out of work for nearly two years. In that stretch of time, when I wasn't filling out resumes for local jobs (about 10-20 a day), I killed time by fishing western CT at some of the larger reservoirs like Colebrook Res. & West Branch Res. (aka Hogback Res., which sits behind Colebrook), as well as the Farmington River.

 

Photo Credit: FourSquare.com

    Fast forward to the present, earlier this Fall, I was asked if I had been to Hopeville Pond State Park, 874 Hopeville Rd, Griswold, Connecticut. I've been there to hike around the park, walk the trails, ride my bike, and check out the boat launch area - which is heavily used by the big bass boat guys.  They have to park their trucks over behind the park ranger's office several yards away from the launch area. We, as kayak anglers, have the awesome option of launching from the beach area because the parking area is right there.
    I had stopped by the local park ranger's office and asked if it was okay to launch from the beach area with my kayak. Of course, he said, "yes", provided we stay away from the people on the beach.

    The park's recreational activities include biking, hiking, camping, fishing, boating, and swimming. The park's campground features 80 campsites. Fish found in 137 acre Hopeville Pond include channel catfish, northern pike, largemouth bass, chain pickerel, and yellow perch.

 

The picnic area at Hopeville State Park. To the right, is the beach area.

Photo Credit: RVpoints.com

 

Photo Credit: Pinterest

    My initial views of the water's clarity was pretty clear. The pond is visited by migrating ducks and some Canadian geese. It was a hot spot for paddle boarders, casual paddlers, and the larger bass boat owners as well. There were a few spots where lily pads were present - a good hiding place for bass in the summer. I saw a few of the bass boat guys working the outer edges of the pad areas. No problem for those of us that fish out of kayaks!

Photo Credit: CTFishTalk.com

Photo Credit: CT DEEP CT.gov

 

Photo Credit: Inland Fishing in CT. CTvisit.com

The boat launch ramp at Hopeville State Park isn't very wide, so it's one vehicle at a time. Trucks with trailers must be parked in the lot behind the Park Ranger's quarters.

Photo Credit: CT DEEP

 

The boat launch ramp at Hopeville State Park flanks a wooden walking bridge that connects trails on the other side of the park.

Photo Credit: CT DEEP

A large spacious beach area for plenty of swimmers. Kayak Anglers can launch from the beach area - just be careful not to disturb the beach goers.

Photo Credit: SeeSwim.com

The beach area at Hopeville State Park during the Fall. 

Photo Credit: CT DEEP

Sunset twilight over Hopeville State Park & Campground during the Fall. 

A camp fire feels good at the end of a perfect day of fishing at Hopeville State Park & Campground.

So, if you're looking for a perfect blend of hiking, trail biking, camping, paddling, and kayak fishing, give Hopeville State Park & Campground a try. Located in Griswold,CT.

As usual, keep those lines wet and tight! - J